Sarawak laksa is a noodle soup characterised by a distinctive broth that is savoury, spicy, and slightly creamy. One of the many types of Malaysian laksa, the dish is inextricably linked to its namesake East Malaysian state.
Typically enjoyed in the morning, Sarawak laksa was famously lauded by the late US celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain as the “breakfast of the gods.” It was also deemed “Malaysia’s tastiest” laksa by Lonely Planet in its country travel guide.
He who controls the spice
Sarawak laksa is a relatively new creation. It only emerged in the mid-20th century, a couple of decades after that other Sarawakian staple, kolo mee.
A Teochew immigrant from Guangdong, China named Goh Lik Teck is credited with inventing the dish. He is said to have sold a version of it along Kuching’s Carpenter Street in the 1940s.
Sarawak laksa gained popularity in the 1950s as postwar recovery picked up and more people began to dine out. Ming Heng on Carpenter Street and Laksa Lim at the old Tiger Garden at Green Hill were well-known for their renditions.
But it was only in the 1960s that Sarawak laksa really took off, thanks largely to the efforts of a man called Tan Yong Him.
A fruit seller and school canteen operator by trade, Tan set his sights on perfecting the spice paste that was so integral to the dish. He experimented tirelessly, making tweaks as he went along.
“He would put together various combinations of herbs and spices and try them out on the family – a bit more of this, a bit less of that, fry this first or roast that longer, until he got the right taste,” Tan’s third son Boon Kiat told The Star.
Having perfected the recipe, Tan began to market a ready-made version of his spice paste under the brand name Swallow.
Despite an initial reluctance by sundry shops to stock the product, demand picked up in tandem with growing prosperity. Swallow became popular with vendors who could now add Sarawak laksa to their offerings, as well as those who wanted a fuss-free way to prepare the dish at home.
It was also a must-have for Sarawakians residing outside the state, including those studying abroad.
Soon, copycat “bird brands” like Eagle, Parrot, Double Swallow, and Rooster emerged, further popularising Sarawak laksa.
Good to the last drop
There are several components to a good Sarawak laksa, but the hallmark of this noodle soup is undoubtedly the rich, complex broth.
A blend of chicken and prawn stock, it is flavoured with a spice paste made from more than 20 ingredients.
Each purveyor has their own closely guarded recipe, but the paste will include garlic, shallots, lemongrass, galangal, peanuts, candlenuts, chillies, sambal belacan (fermented shrimp chilli paste), and ground spices.
This potent one-two of spices and aromatics, tempered by a shot of thick coconut milk, gives the broth its piquant punch and uniquely grainy texture.
The brownish-orange decoction is ladled into a bowl over coarse rice vermicelli, then topped with shredded chicken, prawns, omelette strips, bean sprouts, and coriander. Calamansi and a dollop of sambal belacan are served on the side.
Sarawak laksa can now be found all across the state and in peninsular Malaysia as well. The dish has even inspired Sabah laksa, a version in the neighbouring state of Sabah that’s been adapted to cater to local taste buds.
This story by Yow Hong Chieh was originally published on AirAsia. Zafigo republished this story in full with permission from the publisher, simply because good stories should be read by as many people as possible! If you have stories that will be of interest and useful to women travellers, especially in Asia, please get in touch with us at [email protected].
