Thailand is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world, and islands such as Phuket have been well and truly discovered. Being just a 90-minute flight from Malaysia ensures its popularity with Malaysians who are holidaying.
While I love Phuket’s heady mix of beaches, restaurants, bars, spas, and shopping, I needed an alternative, so my focus turned northwards from Phuket Island to the coastal strip known as Khao Lak.
A few friends who regularly holidayed in Khao Lak informed me it was like the Phuket of old—laid-back and very relaxing, with several excellent international resorts along a long, tranquil beachfront.
Getting to Khao Lak from Phuket
The nearest airport to Khao Lak is Phuket, so it is impossible to avoid Phuket altogether. I suggest transferring directly to Khao Lak or staying overnight in the northern part of Phuket before travelling to Khao Lak.
Door-to-door transfers offered by resorts are available from Phuket Airport to Khao Lak, and it takes a little under two hours to make such a journey. While this may sound like a long time, some resorts in southern Phuket are 90 minutes from Phuket Airport.
Checking in
My research suggested I should check into the JW Marriott Khao Lak. My first impressions of Khao Lak were most favourable, with the beachfront properties well off the main road and down narrow, winding roads. The Marriott appealed because it was an international standard resort located directly on the beach facing westward with vibrant sunsets. It also offered so many activities that, from the website, I wouldn’t be able to experience them all in the few days I was there.
Within about four hours of departing Kuala Lumpur, I was checking into the Marriott and my swim-up pool room. First impressions are important, and I was immediately impressed with the reception staff and the spacious air-conditioned lobby with ample and comfortable seating. Beyond the reception were a large pool and swaying palms along the beachfront. My room was spacious, with a large verandah that opened onto a pool that reception staff meandered to the main pool.
Activities galore
Checking the available activities at the resort, I became exhausted from perusing the options listed in a 64-page booklet. Most had little appeal to me, as I was just here for a few days of rest and recreation. However, guests who need to be occupied will seek comfort knowing the Marriott has most bases covered. Travelling families will love the fact that there are many activities for their younger members. However, it isn’t just a family resort, as there were various grown-up activities such as cocktail classes with the resident mixologist, olive oil tastings with the Italian chef, an extensive gym, and a serious running route through the resort.
Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Museum: A day that rocked the region
My interest in Khao Lak was aroused back in December 2004 when the disastrous Indian Ocean tsunami wiped out many of the coastal resorts in the area. Most of us didn’t even know what a tsunami was then, but within hours of the tectonic movement centred on Aceh, the world watched in horror after beachside resorts like Khao Lak were destroyed by tidal waves that crashed onto the shore—a beautiful afternoon by the beach ended with almost 4,000 locals and tourists losing their lives.
While the locals cannot forget this day, they have moved on, so it was with mixed emotions that I decided to visit the Ban Nam Khem Tsunami Museum. I’m glad that I did, as it is a small but well-laid-out museum that is respectful of those who lost their lives and informative for those who remember or need to be reminded of the might of nature. However, it is not for everyone, so give it some thought before you make your way here.
The large fishing boats located outside of the building were relocated to the museum after being picked up by the wave and dispatched hundreds of metres inland. Both boats are a chilling reminder of that disastrous December 26 back in 2004.
Takua Pa: The tin-mining town
The museum was my first stop on a day-long regional tour, including the small town of Takua Pa (formerly Takola). The Marriott concierge had suggested Takua Pa, and I was pleasantly surprised when I arrived in the old town.
Had I not known that I was in Thailand, I would have thought I was walking around the streets of Ipoh or places like Papan in Perak. The main street through Takua Pa is lined with old Chinese-style shoplots with similar Sino-Portuguese architecture to many old Malaysian tin towns.
The history is similar too, as Takua Pa developed when tin was discovered in the town in the 19th century. Then, the world was hungry for tin as it was discovered that food products could be preserved by storing food in tin cans.
While Malaysia was one of the main sources of tin, the island of Phuket and some nearby parts, like Khao Lak, were also mined. The vast tourism development of Laguna on the island of Phuket is located around several tailing ponds that were left after tin was mined.
This riverport town was once a prosperous settlement, and it is now undergoing a resurgence as a new generation of entrepreneurs has converted many old shoplots into smart restaurants, bars, boutique hotels and shops. Lively and vibrant street art along Takua Pa Culture Street reflects the town’s history.
I enjoyed a refreshing iced Thai tea in Kopi Kuapa, with its outside seating in the gardens of an adjoining block of land. While sipping my refreshing beverage, I observed Oh Leng Bar and Café immediately opposite and thought it would be a pleasant location for a refreshing sundowner beverage should I ever return. Sadly, my time was limited, but a mental note was made to return one day and stay overnight to make the most of what the town offered. The staff at Kopi Kuapa suggested I return on a Sunday when the main street became a walking street night market.
Dining treats
One of the great joys of visiting Thailand is indulging in all the delicious treats. Seafood dominates the menus of most restaurants in Khao Lak; everything I sampled was excellent.
Some restaurants to seek out include Nai Mueang Restaurant and Zab Nua Seafoods. The first restaurant is enclosed in a rustic timber building that unfolds around items from yesteryear, such as old pushbikes, lanterns, and furniture. It is recognised as a Michelin Bib Gourmand outlet for dishes such as Coconut Soup with Lotus Stem, and Stir-Fried Melinjo Leaves with Egg. Order the Thai Fish Cakes served with sweet chilli sauce for a more traditional Thai dish.
Zab Nua Seafoods features a more contemporary setting where dishes such as Deep-Fried Fish with Butter and Garlic Pepper, and Hot Pot Steamed Egg with Seafood. Finish the meal here and in most other Khao Lak restaurants with the ever-popular Mango Sticky Rice served with coconut cream.
Tips on choosing your Khao Lak stay
Choose your resort carefully in Khao Lak, as the seafront resort precinct extends for several kilometres, and moving from one place to another takes some time with the assistance of Grab’s e-hailing service. Visitors soon discover that Khao Lak is a tranquil seaside retreat that still moves at a leisurely pace. Combine it with a livelier Phuket for a balanced vacation on your next Thai holiday.
