Kakadu National Park is not only the jewel of the Northern Territory’s tourism arsenal; it is also Australia’s largest national park. (Image by David Bowden)
The opening of a new air route is always exciting, so when AirAsia started flying to Darwin in northern Australia, a certain travel rush kicked in. Australia is a popular holiday destination, with Sydney and Melbourne well-visited. Little-known Darwin, in what is referred to as the ‘Top End’, presents a wildly laid-back proposition for an adventurous holiday.
Destination Darwin
It wasn’t long before I completed an itinerary for a five-day holiday, including a night in Darwin, another in Litchfield National Park, two nights in Kakadu National Park, and a final evening back in Darwin before returning to Kuala Lumpur.
After checking into the DoubleTree by Hilton Esplanade Darwin, we maximised our late afternoon exploring the city centre. The hotel is located close to several lively bars that thrive during happy hours. We dropped into the popular microbrewery called Six Tanks Brew Pub, located in the thick of the action.
Our time was limited in Darwin, but we met some friendly locals who told us about some of the city’s essential attractions. Crocodiles featured prominently in these discussions, including Crocosaurus Cove with its ‘Cage of Death’, where thrill-seekers are lowered into a crocodile pool in a transparent enclosure. Thanks, but no thanks, we thought.
Cyclone Tracy was another hot topic of discussion. On Christmas Eve in 1974, the city was mostly levelled by the destructive cyclone, and there’s a detailed account in the Museum and Art Gallery of Northern Territory.
Another unique attraction is the open-air Deckchair Cinema that operates near Darwin Harbour during the dry season from mid-April to mid-November. It is too wet for outdoor movies during the monsoon.
Hanuman Restaurant, which adjoins the DoubleTree, was highly recommended. Hotel staff made a reservation, and we were glad they did, as the restaurant was packed. We felt right at home here as we scanned the menu to see familiar dishes such as Kashmiri tandoori chicken tikka, Nonya chicken satay, green curry chicken, and butter chicken. The standout dish was a Wagyu beef salad paired with a Grüner Veltliner wine from the Adelaide Hills.
To the Top End
Time was limited, so after a restful evening, we collected our motorhome, which was going to be our accommodation for several days. Our Star recreational vehicle (RV) was flashy enough and proved to be remarkably livable. Two people could move about comfortably inside, one cooking dinner on the stove and the other preparing cool drinks to temper the tropical weather. There was a shower and toilet, air conditioning that earned its keep, and enough storage for luggage and food.
After visiting a supermarket and stocking up on essential supplies, we headed out of Darwin while familiarising ourselves with the motorhome. Our first stop was Litchfield National Park, just over an hour south of the capital.
While it was the dry season when we visited, water plays an important role in the park’s ecosystem, and waterfalls and waterholes are popular tourist attractions. We visited Florence Falls and Buley Rockhole before stopping at the popular Wangi Falls. Facilities in the park are excellent, and it wasn’t long before we joined others cooling off in the expansive plunge pool at the base of the 50-metre-high waterfall. Later, we explored the monsoon forest that thrives in the moist conditions created by the cascading waters.
Another fascinating feature of many parts of the Northern Territory is the numerous above-ground termite mounds that punctuate the scrubby savannah vegetation.
Kakadu, a World Heritage Site
Kakadu’s vast wilderness is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The land has been occupied by First Nations people for some 60,000 years, and evidence of their culture is best admired in the paintings found on various rock surfaces within the park.
The most accessible rock painting sites are located at Ubirr and Burrungkuy, and we visited both despite them being located over 100km apart. We admired ochre paintings of native Australian animals, human figures, and hands that could, so the ranger told us, date back thousands of years.
The landscape varies from rocky outcrops to plains of scrubby savannah woodlands and vast billabongs, or wetlands. We camped that evening at the campground adjoining Cooinda Lodge. The motorhome’s double bed, hidden in the roof, was electronically lowered each night for sleep.
Like most visitors to the park, we were eager to get close to crocodiles; close, but not that close. A Yellow Water Cruise was booked, and as the sun rose above the scrubby plains, we slowly crossed the still and silent waters of Yellow Water. Within minutes, a crocodile was sighted, and cameras began to roll. More appeared, both in the water and on the banks, and the commentary from Scott, our guide and boatman, was fascinating and informative.
After closely eyeballing numerous crocodiles, we realized that the line between being the observer and being observed is blurred. But, it’s not only the crocs and the wetlands and fascinating vegetation—there are also numerous birds to be sighted, both on the water and along the banks. There were several birdwatchers onboard, and they weren’t disappointed with the wading birds, raptors, kingfishers, and the large and impressive Jabiru. Our favourite was the darter, with its spreading wings drying in the rays of the early morning sunlight.
Darwin’s sunset market
While it was difficult to leave Kakadu, we had an important market to visit back in Darwin. Travelling by motorhome injected a sense of adventure and accomplishment into our journey of discovery. While the holiday was planned, it was open to change when required, and enabled us to stop as and when we wanted to. It had become more than just a vehicle; it was the bridge between comfort and wilderness. It allowed us to linger longer, to visit where few tourists go, and to set up camp in some amazing settings.
We returned the motorhome, checked into the very impressive Mindil Beach Casino Resort, and then headed to the adjoining sunset market.
Mindil Beach Sunset Market started as a night market some 30 years ago and now has over 200 stalls. They are set up along the beach twice weekly during the dry season (April to October) to offer tempting global cuisines alongside the work of local artisans and indigenous artists. Visitors can indulge in Asian and global delights, marvel at street artists, or have a soothing neck massage. And, of course, this is done with the beach and inevitable sunset as a backdrop. The market operates on Thursday and Sunday evenings, from 4pm to 9pm.
Like most holidays, it wasn’t long enough, but we packed a lot into our five-night Top End adventure.
Getting there
AirAsia flies four times per week from Kuala Lumpur direct to Darwin, with the flight taking five hours. The airline also operates direct flights to Adelaide and Perth, while AirAsia X flies to Sydney and Melbourne. All strengthen the group’s regional presence and its commitment to delivering low-cost, high-value connectivity across Australia. AirAsia X just clinched the prestigious Best International Airline of the Year title at the Australian Aviation Awards 2025.
Getting about
Star RV operates a fleet of vehicles that can sleep from two (Polaris 2) to six people (Polaris 6). They are fully equipped to enable self-catering, thus offering great savings on accommodation and restaurant meals.
