A quiet stay at Oakwood Cameron Highlands reminded me that sometimes the best highland getaway is one where you do considerably less than you planned.
When I told my mum I was heading up to Cameron Highlands, she casually mentioned that it had been more than 30 years since she had last been there. I hadn’t been back in more than a decade myself, so the decision was easy: she was coming with me. We packed a couple of weekend bags and settled in for a leisurely four-hour drive from Kuala Lumpur, half of it spent winding our way up the mountain.
The timing couldn’t have been better. KL had been particularly hot, so the cooler air was welcome long before we reached our destination. And while Cameron Highlands has inevitably changed, we were pleasantly surprised by how much of its old-world charm remained — the mist, tea plantations, gardens, winding roads, and buildings with their familiar black-and-white, English-inspired character. Even newer properties such as Oakwood Cameron Highlands seem to understand that they are guests in this landscape, rather than the main attraction.
That turned out to be a good description of our stay, too. We weren’t looking for a packed itinerary or a hotel with endless activities. We wanted somewhere cool and comfortable where we could eat, read, sleep, and generally become complete sloths for a few days. Oakwood suited that surprisingly well.
A quiet arrival
Oakwood is set away from the busiest parts of Cameron Highlands, but not so far out that you feel cut off. The first thing I noticed on arrival was how easy the parking was, with plenty of spaces in front of the hotel and additional tiered parking behind it. There are two arrival points, too: the main entrance involves a rather grand flight of stairs, while the rear entrance allows for a more practical luggage drop-off.
The bell team was on hand to help, and stepping inside from the misty, cool air felt like a proper arrival. The building itself is tall and immediately becomes a focal point against the surrounding landscape, but I liked that it wasn’t trying too hard to make a statement. Its restrained black-and-white exterior fits surprisingly naturally into Cameron Highlands.
The lobby follows the same understated approach. It is impressive without being showy, helped considerably by the views outside. Check-in was quick, with a pre-check-in option making things even smoother. The concierge was friendly, took us through the hotel’s facilities, and we were soon heading upstairs.
A room made for staying in
We stayed in a Deluxe Premier Twin, a 26-square-metre room with two beds, a balcony, and views towards the golf course. It felt compact at first, but after three days, I realised that compact wasn’t the same as cramped. Mum and I never found ourselves awkwardly navigating around one another.
The muted grey-and-white palette gives the room a contemporary feel that matches the building’s exterior. The bed and pillows were comfortable, and there was enough practical storage and equipment for a short stay, including a wardrobe, safe, mini-fridge, kettle, coffee facilities, Nespresso machine, hairdryer, iron, slippers and USB ports.
We didn’t need air-conditioning during our stay. A fan was enough during the day, while the nights were cool enough that we were perfectly happy without it. The hotel was in the process of installing air-conditioning in rooms in response to guest requests, though, so this is worth checking if that is important to you.
The bathroom was similarly straightforward and comfortable, with a good-sized shower, strong water pressure, hot water and plenty of space around the vanity. Most importantly, there were no little practical annoyances that made the room feel less comfortable over several days.
One of my favourite spaces, however, wasn’t the room at all. Tucked away on the ground floor was a lounge corner that seemed to attract very few people. After breakfast, it became my little reading nook — exactly the sort of place I could happily disappear into for an hour.
Come hungry
We ate most of our meals at OakBistro, the hotel’s all-day dining restaurant, and I’m glad we did. The portions were generous without feeling like an afterthought, which made us very happy after a day out.
The highlights for me were the Oakwood fried rice, curry mee, vegetarian lamb curry and salmon aglio olio. Everything we tried was tasty, and the portions were sufficiently generous that we didn’t leave feeling as though hotel dining had come with the usual premium in portion size.
Up on the rooftop, OakBistro also serves drinks and afternoon tea. If you’re staying here, I’d make a point of heading up around sunset or sunrise. The views are one of Oakwood’s biggest assets, and the rooftop is one of the best places to appreciate them.
Enough to do, if you want to
Oakwood has a well-equipped 24-hour gym, and I did manage to squeeze in some running on the treadmill. The best part wasn’t the workout itself, but the view: looking out towards the greenery made running considerably more pleasant.
There’s also a DIY launderette, which is a practical touch for longer stays, families or anyone travelling with children. There isn’t a swimming pool, which surprised me for a four-star property, but I didn’t particularly miss having one. This was a stay where the absence of a pool mattered considerably less than having somewhere comfortable to sit and do nothing.
The hotel also organises guided experiences, including trips such as Mossy Forest treks. We didn’t have time to join one, but it’s a useful option if you want to build more activity into your stay.
For me, the real activity was watching the landscape change with the light. A sunrise or sunset from the rooftop is one thing I wouldn’t skip.
Close enough, but bring the car
The location strikes a good balance between quiet and convenience. You’ll want a car if you plan to explore Kea Farm, the fruit and flower farms, tea plantations, cafes and restaurants around the highlands, but you don’t feel as though you’ve traded all convenience for a nice view.
We drove to Kea Farm Market in the morning, arriving around 10.30am and leaving around noon. That timing proved fortuitous: by the time we were leaving, traffic heading towards the area was already beginning to crawl. If Kea Farm is on your list, I’d go early.
There are also newer attractions within walking distance, including Tokyo Town Cameron, a Japanese-themed street market roughly 10 minutes away on foot. I did see some particularly enthusiastic visitors walking further afield along the roads, but given the winding terrain, I was happy to have a car.
Has Cameron Highlands changed?
This was the question I was most curious about, especially with my mum beside me.
On the way up, we played a silly game counting how many familiar fast-food franchises we could spot. There were a few, although we noticed more coffee franchises than anything else. Still, we were relieved that Cameron Highlands hadn’t become completely over-gentrified.
Mum’s main complaint was remembering just how winding the drive could be. Otherwise, her feeling was that surprisingly little had changed. The BOH tea plantation was as busy as ever, and the familiar combination of tea, farms, flowers, mist and old buildings was still there.
That sense of continuity was perhaps what I enjoyed most. Even with new hotels and attractions appearing, Cameron Highlands still has a visual language of its own. Oakwood’s homey, residential feel works precisely because it doesn’t fight that character. It feels more like a comfortable serviced residence than a grand resort — and for this particular destination, I think that’s a good thing.
The verdict
Would I stay at Oakwood Cameron Highlands again? Yes, particularly for a short break when what I really want is to get somewhere cooler, check in and stop doing things for a while.
There are certainly hotels here with more resort-style facilities, and the lack of a pool may matter to some travellers. But that wasn’t what I came for. I came with my mum to see what Cameron Highlands looked like after all those years, and somewhere along the way, we decided that we didn’t actually need to see very much of it.
Sometimes a good highland escape is simply a comfortable room, a good meal, cool air, a view of the green hills — and permission to be complete sloths for a few days.
