A Belize travel adventure with a close friend reshaped how I explore the world, embrace courage, and seek connection. (Left image by @travelbelize. Right image by autor.)
Belize was supposed to be the relaxing part of my Central America trip. I imagined sun-bleached beaches, swimming in turquoise waters, and long afternoons doing very little — a postcard-perfect pause. Instead, it quietly rewired how I travel.
I landed in Belize City after dark, immediately breaking my sacred solo travel rule: never arrive somewhere unfamiliar at night. My friend Margarita was waiting with a hug and a transfer to San Ignacio, a small inland town near the Guatemalan border, where our adventure would begin.
We were university friends who shared a love of travel, but approached it in very different ways. I liked structure, research, and knowing roughly what tomorrow looked like; Margarita thrived in spontaneity. She convinced me to abandon an organised tour and backpack independently through Belize and Mexico with her — thrilling in theory, terrifying in practice as we drove through near-total darkness.
Arriving at our hostel, cement walls topped with shards of glass and barred windows felt confronting rather than comforting. But morning brought clarity — and colour. Sunlight revealed San Ignacio’s charm: brightly coloured buildings, markets bursting with handcrafted textiles, and the comforting aroma of fried plantains drifting through the tropical air. My anxieties from the night before felt dramatic in hindsight.
From navigating ancient caves to swimming alongside sharks, Margarita’s fearless approach pushed me beyond my comfort zone and into experiences I never would have chosen alone. Through shared challenges, laughter, and occasional chaos, Belize became more than a destination: it became a turning point, proof that sometimes the people we travel with shape a place just as much as the place shapes us.
San Ignacio
San Ignacio is Belize’s inland adventure hub — a lively jungle town known for cave expeditions, Mayan history, and rainforest exploration. It was also where my carefully structured travel style began to loosen.
The town buzzed with a lively backpacker energy that encouraged spontaneity. While I still leaned on routine, Margarita embraced unpredictability, nudging us toward activities and experiences I might never have chosen alone.
I discovered Belizean comfort food, experienced my first truly immersive hostel stay, and most memorably, agreed to step deep into the legendary ATM Cave, an adventure that would permanently reshape how I approach challenge and travel itself.
Where we stayed
My introduction to true backpacker culture began at Bella’s Backpackers Hostel, a family-run stay perched on a hill overlooking San Ignacio. Simple and rustic, it’s centred around a large tree growing through the communal space, with colourful walls, open-air balconies, and dorm rooms that favour atmosphere over luxury.
Arriving at night was intimidating, but by morning, Bella’s revealed its warmth and character. Travellers gathered on the balcony, swapping stories and tips, and Margarita immediately embraced the social vibe: signing us up for activities, meeting new people, and sharing meals. I discovered how hostels can shape not just where you stay, but how you travel.
While undeniably no-frills, Bella’s charm lies in its strong sense of community and its convenience for jungle excursions like the ATM Cave, making it an ideal base for adventurous, budget-conscious travellers.
Bella’s Backpackers Hostel – San Ignacio
4 Galvez Street, San Ignacio, Belize
What we ate & drank
After long, humid days exploring, we kept finding our way back to Erva’s Restaurant, a local favourite across from Bella’s. Casual, unfussy, and full of heart, it was the kind of place where dogs curled up at your feet while plates of Belizean comfort food arrived steadily from the kitchen. Our go-to was the vegetarian plate — white rice with stew beans, chaya, and perfectly fried plantains — simple, nourishing, and utterly satisfying.
On a return visit, curiosity led us to try Erva’s Beer-garita — exactly what it sounds like, and surprisingly refreshing after a hot day. Between the friendly staff, generous portions, and relaxed atmosphere, Erva’s became more than just a meal stop; it was a place to reflect, trade travel stories, and ease into the rhythm of San Ignacio.
Erva’s Restaurant
Location: 4 Far West Street, San Ignacio, Belize
Monday–Saturday, 10:00am–12:00am | Sunday CLOSED
What we did
The Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) Cave is one of Belize’s most iconic adventure experiences — and for good reason. On a cool, misty morning, we joined a small group and left our belongings behind, stepping into the jungle with only helmets, headlamps, and a growing sense of anticipation. The journey began with several river crossings, the water shockingly cold against the tropical air, before we reached the cave’s shadowed entrance. Inside, light vanished, replaced by echoes and vast limestone chambers once used by the ancient Maya for sacred rituals.
As the cave narrowed, so did my confidence. We waded through underground rivers, climbed slippery rock faces, and squeezed through tight channels where walls pressed close enough to quicken my breath. At the most nerve-wracking points, Margarita stayed right beside me, offering quiet encouragement and the steady reassurance I needed to keep moving forward. Her presence turned what could have been terrifying into a shared challenge, one that ended in laughter, relief, and a real sense of accomplishment.
Reaching the ceremonial chamber felt surreal. Barefoot, we carefully stepped past pottery fragments and skeletal remains, preserved for centuries — a humbling reminder that this wasn’t just an adventure playground, but a site of profound cultural and spiritual significance. Emerging into daylight, scraped and soaked but smiling, I felt changed. Saying yes to the cave unlocked a confidence that lingered long after Belize, and it all began with trusting the person beside me enough to take the leap.
Recommended tour: ATM Cave Tour via Bella’s Backpackers or licensed operators in San Ignacio
Note: Photography is not allowed inside the cave to protect this sacred site
Caye Caulker
With white sand underfoot, turquoise waters stretching endlessly, and dogs roaming streets lined with colourful buildings, arriving on Caye Caulker felt like stepping into a sun-drenched postcard. The island radiated a carefree energy, inviting us to slow down and soak it in. Margarita and I set off on a DIY photography tour, getting lost in the murals, laughing at our clumsy angles, and letting the day unfold spontaneously.
One friendly dog joined our adventure along the jetty at sunset and settled behind me, nudging close as we watched the sun sink into the Caribbean. It was a small, perfect moment of connection — with the island, with life, and with the friend I was sharing it with.
By this point, I had slipped into the island’s rhythm: relaxed and inspired to embrace whatever adventure came next, whether it was snorkelling, exploring local food, or simply soaking in the island life.
Where we stayed
Bella’s Backpackers again became our little home base. I quickly found myself celebrating the small joys of hostel life: discovering shelves in the bathrooms, bed curtains, and other tiny details that felt like wins. Like its San Ignacio counterpart, the hostel had a social, welcoming vibe where travellers lingered over drinks at the bar to swap stories or map out their next adventure. Its laid-back rhythm gave us space to unwind after busy days while staying part of a lively, friendly community.
Evenings were full of quirky little adventures: laughter at the bar, spontaneous conversations with fellow travellers, impromptu drinking games, and the occasional friendly dog curling up beside us. By the end of our stay, I’d discovered the joy of hostel living: the chance encounters, shared laughs, and tiny surprises that turn a simple night’s stay into part of the adventure itself.
Bella’s Backpackers Hostel – Caye Caulker
Crocodile Street, Caye Caulker, Belize
What we ate & drank
For breakfast (or anytime a snack was needed), we couldn’t resist Errolyn’s House of Fry Jacks. This unassuming street-food stall with a small balcony served pillowy fry jacks (deep-fried dough pieces) stuffed with beans and cheese that were utterly addictive. We’d usually grab them to go, munching while wandering the island, perching on a jetty, or lounging in the public hammocks along the shore. The experience was as much about the atmosphere as the food: casual, local, and entirely of-the-moment.
For drinks and island views, I suggested Sip N Dip, and Margarita happily agreed to the little indulgence. Stretching out over the water, we sipped pina coladas and a local Rum Punch, watched stingrays glide beneath us, and tested our balance on the swings dipping into the ocean. Hours disappeared in laughter, toasts to our adventures, and soaking up the carefree island energy that made Caye Caulker feel so free and alive. It’s the combination of simple, delicious food, playful drinks, and these little moments that turned ordinary days into unforgettable adventures.
Errolyn’s House of Fry Jacks
Avenida Langosta / Pasero Street, Caye Caulker, Belize
Open everyday, 6:30am – 1pm
Sip N Dip Bar
Playa Asuncion, Caye Caulker, Belize
What we did
Our snorkelling day with Salt Life Eco Tours began with a slightly chaotic start. A little hungover from hostel bar antics, we clambered into a small dinghy that tossed us about as it slapped through the waves. Water sprayed our faces, I held my snorkel mask over my eyes to protect my contacts, and laughter quickly broke through the chaos. It was unglamorous, hilarious, and a perfect reminder that travel rarely goes according to plan, and that’s often part of the fun.
Once we reached Hol Chan Marine Reserve, everything changed. Crystal-clear waters revealed coral, turtles glided gracefully, and spotted eagle rays swept around us. Salt Life’s guides shared insights on the reef, marine conservation, and why observing wildlife respectfully matters. It’s a reminder that adventure and responsibility go hand in hand. The ultimate thrill came at shark territory as fins slicing through the water had my heart racing, but Margarita jumped in first, sacrificing herself (in spirit) and giving me the courage to follow. Floating beside her, watching the sharks’ elegant movements, I felt a rush of trust and awe — in her, in myself, and in the world.
That day wasn’t just snorkelling; it was a celebration of curiosity, shared courage, and the joy of saying yes to experiences that both scare and delight.
Salt Life Eco Tours – Caye Caulker
Location: Playa Asuncion, Caye Caulker, Belize
Open Monday – Saturday, 7am – 5pm
Belize rewards curiosity, courage, and connection in equal measure. Whether navigating ancient caves or snorkelling among reef sharks, this small but mighty country delights at every turn, inviting travellers to trust their instincts, embrace adventure, and grow beyond their comfort zones.
For me, Belize became unforgettable because of the person I shared it with. Margarita’s adventurous spirit, budget-savvy hacks, and fearless attitude transformed a simple getaway into a bold and joyful journey. Thank you, Margarita, for keeping me laughing through the chaos, and showing me that travel is as much about the people you share it with as the places you see.
If the chance to travel with someone you love ever arises, take it. Shared adventures often reveal new sides of the world and of yourself. Belize it or not, it just might change your life.
Zafigo Tips: A quick guide to Belize for women travellers
Arrival strategy: If your flight lands late in Belize City, book a verified tourist shuttle, or stay near the airport and head inland the next morning.
Safety at night: San Ignacio is generally safe, but stick to the main “Welcome to San Ignacio” area and Burns Avenue for dining. Walking alone in unlit, residential areas uphill from the town centre after 9pm is best avoided.
Dealing with catcalls: You may encounter “island talk” or persistent advances. The most effective approach is a firm “No, thank you” with a polite smile while continuing to walk.
Sun & sand safety: Belize has a strict “no-touch” policy for its reef to protect the ecosystem. Use reef-safe sunscreen. Also, be aware of “sand flies”; carry a small bottle of coconut oil or DEET-free repellent to avoid itchy bites on the beach.
Drinking water: Tap water in Belize is high in calcium and not suitable for drinking. Most hostels (including Bella’s) provide 5-gallon purified water refills. Bring a reusable bottle to save money and reduce plastic waste.
Feminine products: Pads are easy to find in San Ignacio’s grocery stores, but tampons can be surprisingly scarce and expensive. If you prefer tampons or menstrual cups, bring your own supply.
Dress code: While Caye Caulker is bikini-friendly on the beach, San Ignacio is more conservative. When visiting churches or local markets inland, opt for a light t-shirt over a tank top to avoid unwanted attention.
All photos are courtesy of the author unless stated otherwise.
