Taiwan is home to many breathtaking landscapes, but few capture its natural beauty quite like Alishan. A mountain destination nestled in Chiayi County, Alishan is a tucked-away paradise brought to life by sacred forests, old towns, and scenic train rides through the hills. Every turn on this misty highland reveals breathtaking scenes. If you’re looking to swap the city’s concrete skylines for green mountains and misty sunrises, this is the place for you.
Before you go
I visited Alishan in the middle of February, and that meant I got to see the end of winter and the very beginning of the cherry blossom season. Temperatures range between 5°C to 15°C around this period, and the mountain air remains chilly throughout the day, so make sure to pack some warm clothes.
A good, windproof jacket will do if you’re used to the cold. However, if you’re like me (A Malaysian accustomed to warmer weather), you may want to layer up. Comfortable shoes are necessary as well as you’ll likely be doing a lot of walking.
The temperature can drop significantly at dawn and in the evening, so it’s advisable to pack gloves and a scarf to prevent freezing during outdoor activities.
A taste of authenticity
In the heart of Alishan is Long Yum Leisure Farm, an accommodation cum experience stay that blends tradition with sustainability. The journey up to the farmstay was an adventure itself–panoramic views of lush greenery as we slowly made our way through the mountain’s winding roads. Although it took a three-hour bus ride from Taoyuan to reach this gem, what you get to experience here is worth it.
Rooms are large and spacious, and most of them include two beds–great for families or groups. Because of the late night/early morning temperature drop, each room is also fitted with a heater.
What also makes Long Yum special is its commitment to organic farming and cultural preservation. Guests get to partake in various activities, from harvesting fresh vegetables to learning the art of traditional mochi-making (pounding glutinous rice into a soft, chewy texture before dusting it with peanut powder).
The farm also takes pride in its halal-friendly approach, ensuring that the kitchenware, tableware, and menu for Muslim travellers are different from what is used for visitors who do not have religious dietary restrictions.
A walk through time
The true star of this highland destination is the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. At an altitude of 2,216 meters, the park’s chilly and misty air and natural environment make it a haven for both adventurers and those seeking a moment of peace and solitude.
As you make your way through the forest, you’ll find yourself surrounded by ancient cypress and fir trees, some of which have stood for over a thousand years. Landmarks like The Sacred Tree and The Three-Generation Tree are true testaments of time.
Trails are well-maintained yet rustic enough to preserve the park’s natural charm. Every few meters, you’ll also come across intricate woodwork sculptures. These detailed carvings, depicting elements of Alishan’s indigenous culture, are the handiwork of woodworkers who use fallen trees to breathe new life into the forest’s heritage.
Shouzhen Temple, the largest temple in Alishan, is dedicated to Mazu, the Goddess of the sea. It is unmissable as you make your way through the woodland. Smaller shrines, which you’ll also come across, invite visitors to pause, reflect, and take in the spiritual energy of the land.
A ride through the trees
Originally built during the Japanese colonial era for logging, the Alishan Forest Railway is now used as transportation between towns along the Alishan Range. The most famous stretch of the journey runs from Alishan to Zhushan, where passengers get to see one of Taiwan’s most stunning sunrises.
From Alishan Park, you can also jump on a train for a 6-minute ride through the forest. This old-timey railway is also known for its unique switchback design, a feature that allows the train to zigzag up the steep slopes of the mountains.
The railway connects to other stops, including Fenqihu, where you can learn about the railway’s rare engineering features.
A glimpse into the past
Fenqihu, often referred to as the ‘Jiufen of Southern Taiwan,’ is a step back in time. Once a busy stop along the Alishan Forest Railway, this mountain village-town now thrives as a cultural and F&B hub. Its old, narrow streets are lined with wooden storefronts that sell a mix of traditional herbs, souvenirs and snacks, the most popular, based on the line outside the store, being the Fenqihu lunchbox, a bento-style quick meal originally crafted for railway workers.
Coffee lovers, fret not. Less than a five-minute walk out of Fenhiqu Old Street and along the main road, you’ll find a row of rustic cafes where you can sit, have a warm cuppa and people-watch.
Beyond the food, Fenqihu holds treasures of history, from its Japanese-era buildings (the ones you’ll see along the old street) to a well-preserved train garage that now functions as a museum that showcases the evolution of the Alishan railway system.
This trip was part of a media familiarisation tour organised by Tourism Taiwan Malaysia under the ‘Salam Taiwan’ initiative, which highlights Muslim-friendly destinations, dining options, and cultural experiences across Taiwan. The initiative aims to make Taiwan an accessible and welcoming destination for all.
