“You have to be kidding; biking in Bangkok?” This was the typical response I received when I told my friends about my most recent visit to the Thai capital. I have to admit, I had to be talked into this little adventure, but I lived to tell this tale and felt pleasantly surprised with the fact that I even tried this.
At the time, it did sound a little crazy, especially in the tropical heat and general urban mayhem that most of us know of Bangkok, but I persevered and felt all the better for it afterwards.
This was not my first trip to Bangkok; in fact, I have been here many times, and I thought I knew the city quite well. I find that when you visit a place so regularly, you fall into a pattern, and breaking free from routine is often difficult. Trying something new was not high on my agenda, as I had so many regular places that I wanted to return to. However, I am glad that my travel companions talked me into a morning bike ride as I discovered Bangkok in a very different light from the city I thought I knew well.
Crossing over to Bang Krachao Island
Being a novice at urban cycling, I chose to join a small group tour and headed down a few quiet laneways (soi) under the watchful eye of a local cycling guide, who instilled confidence in me; he had done the journey many times.
We were heading south from Sukhumvit Road to the banks of the Chao Phraya River, to be ferried across to Bang Krachao, what is now officially an island. Bang Krachao was formerly a huge horseshoe bend in the Chao Phraya River but a constructed canal near Bumibol 1 Bridge has created what is now a low-lying artificial island.
The initial part of our journey ended near the Khlong Toei Pier, where a long-tail boat was waiting to ferry us on a short journey across the river. Those who want to cycle independently of a group should make their way to Phra Pradaeng, where neighbourhood bike hire companies such as M-Bike (THB80 per day or THB40 per hour) are located close to the pier.
M-Bike and other entrepreneurial villagers have set up shop at most of the piers in the Phra Pradaeng area, and while the bikes aren’t exactly top-notch, they’re all quite serviceable. These bikes have adjustable seats, a basket at the front for stowing a camera or a small backpack, and functional rear and front brakes, but there are no gears. The bike route is flat enough that you won’t miss the gears. My tip is to make sure the seat is set to the appropriate height that works best for you and avoid using the front brake because if you jam it on in an emergency, you will most likely go over the handlebars.
All the time, I was making notes so that I could do the journey alone on my next visit to Bangkok. For example, the guide told me that the boat trip across the river costs just a few Baht.
Cycling through Bang Krachao’s tranquil rural roads
Upon arriving at Kum Mun Khao Pier (also written as Kamnankhao Pier), I looked back across the river to the hectic urban life that we had just left and quickly noticed just how quiet it was on our side of the river. Looking behind me at the semi-rural surroundings, I appreciated why Bang Krachao is known as the ‘green lungs’ of Bangkok.
While it was now 10am, it didn’t feel hot as we set off single-file behind the guide and immediately onto tranquil rural roads lined with shady trees. It was hard not to notice the vast contrast between rural life here and that in the urban maze across the river.
I’m unsure if there was a plan and a route, but it felt like an unstructured ride with lots of stops to photograph groves of coconut palms, village life, and market gardens where vegetables were growing.
There was virtually no traffic or people, so it was a relaxing and comfortable ride beneath the semi-shade cast by the tall roadside vegetation. Rural roads soon turned into narrow concrete paths, and it all looked very remote and far removed from the madding crowd that is Bangkok.
Civilisation of sorts loomed again at Bang Krachao Pier, where the impressive seated golden Buddha in front of Wat Bang Nam Phueng Nok was a sight that just had to be photographed.
Lazy lizards and a peaceful riverside lunch
After another short but shaded ride across bridged streams and mangroves where large monitor lizards swam in the open water, we arrived for lunch at the rather unique Bangkok Tree House, promoted as a ‘green’ hotel.
While the rooms in this property are very comfortable and would appeal to those seeking alternative accommodation in a peaceful riverside setting, it was food and cool drinks that were on our minds after cycling for about 10km over the past couple of hours.
The shaded riverside restaurant serves Thai and Western food and is well worth taking time out here for dining and relaxing, even for those who don’t intend to stay overnight.
Various local companies offer bicycle hire and rudimentary maps, and it is possible to return to your starting point on a circuitous route or via a long-tail boat.
Navigating your Bangkok bike tour
Getting about: Phra Pradaeng is a district to the south of the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok and well away from the city’s main tourist attractions. It is accessible via a ferry or long-tail boat journey across the river and to piers that provide bicycle hire.
Where to stay: Most cyclists will visit Phra Pradaeng during the day, but for those seeking a quirky and unique hotel to impress their friends, Bangkok Tree House is just the place. ‘It’s not for everyone’, they claim in their advertising. So, do check out what they offer before making a booking. The property is only accessible by foot, boat, or bike, perfect for those who love nature.
Useful contacts: ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist (+66 2665 6364) and M-Bike (+66 82 066 6082).
