This scenic Swiss train ride is less about speed and more about scenes!
The Swiss Alps have lured visitors to the country for decades, and the finest way to take in its ever-changing scenery is from a seat on the luxurious Glacier Express train. The Glacier Express has operated on one of the world’s most picturesque rail routes since 1930. The journey extends for 290 km but takes some eight hours to make it one of the world’s slowest “express” trains. Its average speed is just 36 km/hour, making it perfect for sightseeing through the curved panoramic windows.
However, no one complains about the speed, or lack of it, as this railway is all about the experience and viewing Switzerland’s stunning alpine and riverine landscapes from the comfort of the elegantly appointed train.
Decisions to make before taking the Glacier Express
The two big decisions travellers have to make are which direction they will travel and in what class (first, second, or excellence on some services). On my most recent journey on the train, I travelled from St. Moritz to Zermatt in first class, but there is no preferred direction; it just depends on where you want to start and finish.
However, my suggestion is to plan an overnight stay in both St. Moritz and Zermatt before and after your all-day journey. Other possibilities are to join the train somewhere along the way, or to break your journey and then rejoin the train.
First and second-class cars have very comfortable interiors and large windows to enable passengers to look up as well as out. Second and first-class seats are configured as four seats with a centre aisle. Excellence Class has one seat on either side of the aisle to ensure all passengers are seated at a window seat with a maximum of just 20 passengers per carriage. Passengers in this class are served a six-course gourmet lunch, with wines paired with each course, plus afternoon tea.
Trains depart on most mornings from both ends of the route, and passengers can join or leave the train at several stops along the way, with the main stations being Filisur (for Davos), Chur, Disentis, Andermatt, and Brig. As reservations are essential on the Glacier Express, I’d recommend travellers on a budget to travel along the same route using the cheaper regional trains. While those holding a Eurail or a Swiss Travel System Pass have access to the Glacier Express, seat and/or seat reservations are compulsory and chargeable.
An alpine journey
The train passes through 90 tunnels and crosses 290 viaducts and bridges, the most famous being the 65-metre-high Landwasser Viaduct. Rail enthusiasts will also be fascinated that the train operates on two different gauges, including a section of narrow, one-metre track from Disentis to Zermatt.
Travellers can choose to arrive in St. Moritz on the Bernina Express for the morning departure of the Glacier Express. This train operates from Tirano in Italy to Chur in Switzerland and is regarded as another classic Swiss rail journey. There are daily departures of the Glacier Express except from mid-October to mid-December. Passengers can also board at Filisur with connections for Davos on regional trains.
The train travels via Tiefencastle, the Landwasser Viaduct, and down the valley to Chur, a major junction for the main train line between Zurich and Brig. Located in the Rhine River Valley, Chur is one of the lowest points along much of the journey and is also where some passengers join the train.
The train continues along the valley from Chur and then up one of its tributaries on its way to Disentis for a change of locomotive. The cogwheel device on the newly attached locomotive is engaged on some sections of the track to help it negotiate several steep inclines, such as the Oberalp Pass at an altitude of 2,030 m.
While Andermatt is located in the saddle of the historic Gotthard Pass, most trains now travel beneath the Alps via the Gotthard Tunnel. Andermatt is a strategically located alpine village on an old trade route over the Alps. I can highly recommend an overnight stay in the luxurious The Chedi Andermatt. While a modern resort, its architects have recreated a club-like ambience with spacious rooms (the smallest rooms are 52 m2) that incorporate a fireplace and an abundance of natural timber and stone. The Wine Library is recognised by Wine Spectator for its plethora of local and iconic international labels, and The Cigar Library has the largest selection of any hotel in the world (900 cigars from 15 countries).
A highlight of engineering is the 270o loop through which the train spirals down into the valley before Brig. Brig is a major stop on the mainline and a station for trains to several other parts of Europe, including Domodossola in Italy for trains through to Locarno and Lake Lugano.
The uphill run to Zermatt
The train branches off the main line at Visp to climb up from the valley on its journey towards its Zermatt terminus. Passengers could alight at Brig, take a regional train to Visp, and travel on the Post Bus to Visperterminen to sample Heida, a famous white wine produced here. The canton of Valais is Switzerland’s largest wine-producing region, with its vineyards regarded as some of Europe’s highest. Chasselas (also referred to as Fendant) is produced in the canton and served on the train. The famous Raclette cheese is a famous dish to try, served hot and with potatoes, bread, onions, and gherkins.
The Glacier Express terminates in car-free Zermatt, and passengers with a hotel reservation will have their baggage transferred via modified motorbikes or electric vehicles. Zermatt is a popular year-round alpine holiday town where skiing and other snow sports dominate in the winter while hiking is popular in the summer. The Matterhorn, at 4,478 m, is one of the world’s most recognisable landforms and the inspiration for the shape of the well-known Toblerone chocolate. Its main street appeals to tourists for shopping, dining, or après-ski relaxation over a locally brewed Zermatt Matterhorn beer in one of several bars.
Accommodation options
There are numerous accommodation options, and most have restaurants and atmospheric bars. Visitors can dine on hearty winter dishes such as Älpermagrone (alpine macaroni), cheese and cold cuts (there are over 450 cheeses made in Switzerland), fondue, and air-dried beef.
Passengers can stay overnight in Zermatt and then travel on Europe’s highest cogwheel and fully-electrified railway to the summit of Gornergrat (3,089 m) for dramatic views of the Matterhorn (4,478 m). The platform is located just beyond Zermatt’s main train station, and there are numerous departures for the 33-minute long, 9.5 km journey.
Europe’s highest-altitude hotel, the 3100 Hotelkulm Gornergrat, is located at the summit and includes a restaurant with a sun terrace, an observatory, and shops. Skiers have direct access from here to the slopes.
Flying into Switzerland from Kuala Lumpur: SWISS International flies daily from Singapore with seamless connecting flights from Kuala Lumpur on partner airlines.
Getting about: Swiss trains lead the world in innovation, and arguably the best way to explore the country is by rail using a Swiss Travel System Pass on trains, buses, and ferries, plus many mountain railways (learn more at Switzerland Tourism). Passes enable unlimited travel in Switzerland for periods extending from three to 15 consecutive days (flexible passes are also available).
