In Singapore’s early days, it was said that, “When at Raffles, guests should also see Singapore.” During the golden era of travel in the 19th century, intrepid travellers ventured to colonial outposts like Singapore and stayed in fine hotels such as Raffles. After seeking respite from the tropical heat, they continued their Grand Asian Tour on another steamship to exotic Asian ports like Penang, Rangoon, and Bangkok.
Insert Photo: Penang’s E&O is one of the region’s most acclaimed heritage hotels. (Image credit: David Bowden)
These destinations were strategic ports of call where passengers disembarked to stay in hotels that became synonymous with the place. It was an era where only those who could afford to travel did, and often these hotels weren’t just the best in their respective location; they were often the only ones. These oases of civilisation appealed to fastidious Europeans who wouldn’t contemplate staying anywhere else.
The past & present
Soon after, writers visited and documented their experiences to audiences who read their adventures in newspapers and books published months and even years later. These days, Instagrammers, bloggers, and key opinion leaders do the same instantaneously for wider audiences.
Often, it was the hotel rather than the destination that inspired writers to document their tales of the East. Writers like Noël Coward, Somerset Maugham, Joseph Conrad, Graham Greene and Rudyard Kipling stayed in Asia’s great hotels while sourcing material for their stories.
Today, many contemporary travellers aspire to visit and stay in these gilded palaces of the past to make the most of their gracious hospitality and illustrative history. Most want to live the dream that has enthralled past generations of adventurers, explorers, and entrepreneurs.
While Asia has many great hotels, it has just a few grand, legendary properties, including Penang’s Eastern and Oriental, or more simply, the E&O. Guests often check in here and stay put while taking in all the hotel has to offer.
The E&O: Penang’s finest
Penang’s E&O is the island’s oldest and grandest hotel, brimming with elegance from a bygone era. The Eastern opened in 1884, while The Oriental welcomed guests in 1885. The two establishments were eventually combined to form the Eastern & Oriental Hotel, a grand 80-room property that quickly became the place to stay or visit in Penang.
Owned and operated by the Sarkies Brothers from Armenia (of Raffles and The Strand fame), this seafront hotel is located near the wondrous maze of shop lots now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Over its 140-year history, the E&O has hosted artists, writers, and celebrities. Posters once advertised the property as having an immaculate sweeping lawn with ‘the longest seafront east of Suez’.
Just beyond the protective seawall is one of two pools in the hotel, surrounded by lush gardens and guarded by a few old cannons that once protected the nearby Fort Cornwallis.
The E&O was initially managed by Arshak Sarkies, an eccentric and flamboyant host who showed unbridled generosity in operating the E&O, seemingly as much for pleasure as profit. In the 1920s, the hotel hosted Penang’s socialites, who often referred to it as the ‘Eat and Owe’ because Sarkies allowed regulars to run chits that could be paid off months later. However, things became unstuck in the 1930s when the hotel was declared bankrupt.
Rescued and revived, it continued to accommodate guests, and in 2013, the 15-storey Victory Annexe with additional rooms and facilities was added. Many regulars were initially alarmed by the intrusion of the new building, but it is now universally accepted.
The Victory Annexe includes an additional 132 classic suites, restaurants, a pool, a spa, and the E&O Gallery. It is worth exploring as it is a repository of many historic items relating to the hotel and Penang of yesteryear.
Not to be neglected, the Heritage Wing has been modernised with contemporary comforts added while many classic and grand heritage features have been retained. This wing also houses a domed lobby featured in the movie Crazy Rich Asians. Noises beneath the dome create wonderful reverberations, while an old wire cage Waygood-Otis lift is still there, but modern lifts have replaced it.
The all-suites Heritage Wing houses spacious rooms with separate lounge areas, bedrooms, and expansive bathrooms.
Modern creature comforts are included with the large bathtub, a soothing place to relax after a day’s sightseeing. The black and white décor has many original elements, including his and her sinks, along with modern luxuries such as pampering Panpuri toiletries.
All the hotel’s restaurants are furnished with antiques, heritage fittings, and some original pieces of furniture. Farquhar’s Bar is set out like a traditional English gentleman’s club with a very welcoming ambience.
Guests staying in the Heritage Wing have access to a private club lounge that includes complimentary non-alcoholic beverages during the day and evening cocktails and drinks served in the colonial ambience of leather lounges, bookshelves, and heritage photos.
Traditional English afternoon teas are served in Palm Court every afternoon for those who want to relive a bygone era. The selection includes sandwiches, pastries, cakes and slices, plus classic scones, strawberry jam and clotted cream.
Modern-day facilities such as a spa, gym, and hotel shop with an excellent collection of books on Penang complete the range of facilities in this delightful property.
Once the domain of the rich, beautiful and famous, the E&O’s food and beverage outlets ensure the hotel’s heritage and charm are available to all. However, the hallmarks of exclusivity, elegance, and style ensure the E&O is Penang’s finest hotel for those who choose to check in and stay.
David Bowden is the author of Enchanting Penang, which has a detailed description of the E&O Hotel.
