Vienna, the Austrian capital, known to the locals as Wien, is the historic centre of the former Habsburg Empire, renowned for its culture, music, and refined living. Christmas is a most enchanting time to visit, with the whole city lit up with decorative lights and all the welcoming signs of Christmas festivities. Naturally, it is going to be cold, but the inevitable dusting of snow makes this time of year so inviting.
The Christmas Markets
The famous Christkindlmärkte, or Christmas Markets, are set up in early to mid-November and continue until just before Christmas Eve. A couple of big markets open as early as the beginning of November, while most begin in the middle of November. Established in the open air, the markets mostly attract the locals who rug up and keep warm with a mug or two of glühwein (mulled wine) or punch for the children, grilled sausages, and by huddling around heaters. Christmas punch, or Weihnachtspunsch, is usually served in a collectible mug, which you pay a little extra for but get to keep as a souvenir and also obtain cheaper refills.
The famous Viennese Christmas markets have been operating since the 14th century, with a dozen or so large markets now welcoming locals and tourists. Most are located in the Old Town (Altstadt) or along the Ringstrasse, which circles the Old Town. Each one has its charm, with those in suburban areas like Grinzing having special appeal as they combine local wines, hearty Austrian fare, and Christmas treats. Located on the edge of the Vienna Woods, Grinzing is home to numerous wine taverns known as buschenschank or heuriger. The name originates from the current year’s wine, or heurige, which patrons come to drink while eating traditional food.
The market around the Gothic-styled Stephansdom Cathedral, the city’s iconic landmark, is ideal for those who want to combine shopping with sightseeing.
While the market isn’t huge, there are some 50 stalls offering Christmas treats and many unique Austrian-made products. The atmosphere changes over the course of the day and becomes especially magical in the early evening when the cathedral lights are illuminated.
Visiting the famous Schönbrunn Palace should be on the ‘must-see’ list of every visitor to Vienna, and the Christmas markets on the palace grounds are an added yule time treat. Take time to combine the market with an inspection of the spectacular palace interior. Like many markets, they are busiest in the evening, and the grounds are most atmospheric due to all the Christmas fairy lights.
Other popular Christmas markets are staged on Rathausplatz, Belvedere Palace, Karlsplatz, and Am Hof.
Culture and art
Vienna is more than the venue to hear the Vienna Boys’ Choir and admire skills at the Spanish Riding School; it’s also rated the world’s most liveable city. Not all attractions are open in December, so if it’s important, it’s best to check before you visit. While cultural heritage is paramount, its modern technology, quirky design, and traditional hospitality make Vienna one of Europe’s most desirable destinations to visit.
Visitors will not only be impressed by the city’s stately heritage buildings but also by how its modern architecture adds to the ambience of some parts of the city. Visitors can admire its historic churches, gardens, castles, museums, and music festivals.
One of Vienna’s more appealing qualities is that most of its attractions are within easy walking distance of each other. The Hofburg, the former residence of the Habsburg Emperors, is a maze of 2,500 rooms, some dating back to the 13th century. Nearby, a former royal household called Palais Modena houses impressive artwork, including frescoes on the ceiling.
The MuseumsQuartier is one of the world’s most extensive cultural districts. Located on the fringe of the old town, it is a combination of revitalised Baroque architecture and impressive modern structures. Included here are the Museum of Modern Art and an experimental precinct for cultural activities. The city has long been a centre of classical music where composers such as Mozart, Schubert, Haydn, and Strauss created some of the world’s best-known classics.
Café society
Spending time in a famous coffeehouse is an essential Viennese activity. Coffeehouses are places to meet, talk, and read, as well as sip coffee. Austrians drink twice as much coffee as beer, so it’s easy to appreciate the importance of coffeehouses. Typical Viennese coffees include mélange (cappuccino) and einspänner (mocha with whipped cream).
Accompanying coffee are traditional cakes such as chocolate cake, strudel, beugel, and golatschen (pastry with sweet cheese or jam filling). The original Sachertorte is best tasted at the Sacher Hotel, but it’s also sold in many outlets throughout the city.
Some of the most inviting Viennese coffeehouses to enjoy Austrian hospitality include Demel, Café Central, Residenz, and Hawelka. Demel is arguably Vienna’s most refined coffeehouse, having served luscious cakes and coffee for over 200 years. Café Central has been frequented since 1900 by Vienna’s leading writers and scholars. Hawelka is where artists meet, and visitors can gain the latest information on the Viennese art scene from wall posters.
Food and wine
Wiener schnitzel is a classic Austrian dish, as is tafelspitz, best served at Plachutta Wollzeile, a famous restaurant in the heart of Vienna. Tafelspitz is boiled veal or beef in a rich broth and served with minced apples and horseradish on the side. It’s a classic Viennese dish but popular in all of Austria and said to be a favourite of Franz Joseph I, a former Emperor of Austria.
For an affordable snack, sausages sold from sidewalk stalls like Wiener Würstl are some of my favourite Viennese treats. Order classic sausages like Burenwurst or Käsekrainer served with tangy mustard on a bread roll and enjoy the experience with a local Gösser beer.
For something more sophisticated, sample Austrian wines like Grüner Veltliner (white) and Blaufränkisch (red) produced by wineries such as Laurenz V, Schweiger, Mayer Am Pfarrplatz, and Tement, to appreciate how these wines are enjoyed by discerning global connoisseurs, now including those in Malaysia.
Christmas shopping
Shops open from 9am to 6pm, with the best precincts to start at being the pedestrian-friendly streets of Kärtnerstrasse, The Graben, and Mariahilferstrasse for famous fashion brands. Visit Julius Meinl (located on The Graben), one of the world’s finest gourmet food stores, Naschmarkt for fresh produce, and the Saturday flea markets.
Getting there
Turkish Airlines offers seamless connections from Kuala Lumpur via its Istanbul hub. Passengers can enjoy some of the finest food, wines, and in-flight entertainment in the sky.
Where to stay
Hotel Am Konzerthaus Vienna MGallery is an elegant hotel with Art Nouveau features, perfectly located close to Vienna’s historic centre and a short walk to the Belvedere Palace.
Visit Austria Tourism and Vienna Tourist Board for more information.
All images are by author unless specified otherwise.
